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The Story of  Norwegian Nobel Prize Laureate Knut Hamsun in Tbilisi

The Story of Norwegian Nobel Prize Laureate Knut Hamsun in Tbilisi

As part of my blog series about people who built connections between Georgia and their home countries, today I want to talk about the Norwegian writer Knut Hamsun (born 1859 in Lom, Norway), a Nobel Prize laureate, who traveled to Georgia in 1899 with his wife.

Hamsun traveled under various names to avoid attention. Rather than spending time with the elite, he wanted to experience ordinary Georgian life, meet local people, and immerse himself in the country. He fell in love with Georgia, and his impressions were later recorded in his book In a Fairy‑tale Land: Experienced and Dreamt.

Hamsun, a well-traveled man who often disliked the countries he visited, made an exception for Georgia. He even expressed a wish to spend his final days there.

The Route and Impressions

He first arrived via Dariali, from Russia into Kazbegi. He was immediately captivated by the view of Mount Kazbek:

“At a sharp bend in the road, on the right side, a valley suddenly opens before the eyes, and very close appears Kazbegi with its glacier shining in the sun. Tall, stern, and silent, it astonishes us with its power. We are filled with an indescribably overwhelming feeling: this is a completely different world, where Kazbegi, surrounded by mountains bound by an oath of loyalty, looks down upon us from above…

This country does not resemble any other country I know, and I am filled with the feeling that I would gladly spend my whole life living here.”

Afterward, he continued to Tbilisi, where he stayed at the London Hotel, the city’s finest at the time. Built in 1875 by German architect Richter and managed by his daughter, it was a private hotel until the Soviet era, when it became a police building. Today, the building still stands on Atoneli Street.

Former hotel London Tbilisi

In Batumi, Hamsun stayed at the Bel Vie Hotel, near the seaside.

Observations About Georgia

In his writings, Hamsun reflected on the slower, more harmonious life of the Caucasus:

“This world is unlike any other I have ever seen, and I still think that I could stay here for the rest of my life. We descended into the valley. Vineyards began to appear. In the forest, walnut trees grow…

The Caucasian knows nothing about the fluctuations of the New York Stock Exchange; his life does not resemble a horse race held at a hippodrome. He lives slowly and unhurriedly, nourishing himself with the fruits of trees and the meat of sheep.

Can it really be said that Europeans and Yankees are superior to the Caucasians in any way? God knows! It is such a debatable question that no one but God can answer.

Never again in my life will I experience a more astonishing and splendid fairy tale. Especially remarkable was the journey through the mountains from Vladikavkaz toward Tbilisi. People there are more beautiful, the wine is redder, and the mountains are higher. I feel that I could live for an entire year near Mount Kazbek.”

Legacy

Unfortunately, Hamsun never returned to live in Georgia. He died at the age of 93 on February 19, 1952, in Nørholm.

Hamsun was the only major writer to visit Georgia without meeting any local literary colleagues. There was no ceremonial reception or traditional supra (feast) offered—he preferred to remain incognito.

Despite his Norwegian fame, Hamsun remains relatively unknown in his home country. According to prominent Georgian professor Levan Berzenishvili, Hamsun’s controversial political stances—such as his support for Germany during the Nazi occupation of Norway—likely contributed to this

Mukhran Guliashvili

Used sources:

1. In a cultural history or travel narrative

The Hotel de Londres in Tbilisi stands as more than an architectural relic — it is a crossroads of history where European artists and thinkers once lingered. When Knut Hamsun paused there in 1899, he found not just shelter but a moment of reflection in a reading room cluttered with the travel guides of the age, underscoring how even ordinary spaces can shape extraordinary impressions of place.

2. To support a theme about Georgia as a cultural crossroads

As travelers like Hamsun, Tchaikovsky, and Curzon passed through Tbilisi, their experiences revealed the city’s position on the cultural map of Eurasia — a bridge between East and West where local character met global curiosity.

3. In an academic or reflective essay

Historical places such as the Hotel de Londres remind us that cities are living archives. The memories of writers and composers who stayed in its rooms continue to enrich our understanding of Tbilisi’s place in literary and artistic history

What British Travelers Must See in Tbilisi?

What British Travelers Must See in Tbilisi?

In recent years, Georgia has become increasingly visible in the United Kingdom. As a tour guide, I have noticed more and more British visitors coming to Georgia, especially after the restoration of direct flights from London Luton Airport to Tbilisi International Airport.

Before arriving, most travelers search for information about the country. Many already know about Georgian wine, traditional food, and the beautiful Caucasus Mountains. However, I believe that most British visitors are not aware of the fascinating story I am going to share in this blog—one that may be especially interesting for travelers eager to learn about the historical relationship between Britain and Georgia.

Before diving into the main topic, a brief introduction to Georgia’s history is necessary, as it provides essential context.

Georgia adopted Christianity in the 4th century, becoming one of the earliest Christian kingdoms in the world. From the 6th to the 8th centuries, Arab forces controlled parts of eastern Georgia. The 11th and 12th centuries are considered Georgia’s Golden Age, when the kingdom was strong and culturally flourishing.

In the 13th century, the Mongols invaded Georgia and ruled for about a century. Later, during the 16th–18th centuries, eastern Georgia was largely under Iranian influence, while the western part of the country was controlled by the Ottoman Empire.

In 1801, the Kingdom of Kartli-Kakheti was annexed by the Russian Empire, bringing eastern Georgia under Russian control. Eventually, the whole country became part of the empire until 1917.

After the collapse of the Russian Empire during the Russian Revolution, Georgia declared independence and established the Democratic Republic of Georgia. Initially, Germany acted as the guarantor of Georgia’s independence in 1918. However, after Germany’s defeat in World War I, the situation changed.

From December 1918 to July 1920, British troops were stationed in Georgia. Their main strategic interest was the oil of Baku, which could be transported to Europe through Batumi on the Black Sea coast. British generals and soldiers lived in Batumi and Tbilisi for about a year. Around 1,500 soldiers arrived in Batumi with two warships, with names “London” and “Liverpool.”

Brattish Military headquarter, modern courtyard Marriot Tbilisi

Sixty-eight of them died while serving in Georgia, and today there are British military cemeteries in both Batumi and Tbilisi. The contingent was multinational, including soldiers from Scotland, Wales, Ireland, and even India. The headquarters of the British military command was located in the building on Liberty Square where the Courtyard by Marriott Tbilisi now stands. While military commanders did not always have good relations with Georgian authorities or the local population, there was another side to the British presence.

Besides the military, an important diplomat, Oliver Wardrop, played a major role in Georgia. He served in the country from 1919 to 1921, but his first visit was much earlier, in 1887. After that journey, he wrote the book The Kingdom of Georgia, probably one of the first introductions of Georgia to the British public.

Wardrop fell deeply in love with Georgia and its culture. Together with his sister, Marjory Wardrop—friends from a conservative family in the SevenOaks district—he became a strong supporter of Georgian independence. Oliver Wardrop also played a key role in the United Kingdom recognizing Georgia as an independent state in 1920.

Unfortunately, in the same year the British army left Georgia, the country was occupied by the Soviet Red Army. Georgia remained part of the Soviet Union until it regained independence in 1991.

Marjory Wardrop also developed a profound interest in Georgia. Inspired by her brother’s letters, she learned the Georgian language and became the first person to translate several Georgian literary works into English, including the famous epic poem The Knight in the Panther’s Skin by Shota Rustaveli. She impressed Georgian intellectuals with her knowledge of the language at a time when literacy in Georgia was relatively low.

The house where Oliver Wardrop lived as British commissioner 1919-1921 , modern writers house Machabeli street

Marjory later visited Georgia in 1894, where her host was the renowned Georgian writer and public figure Ilia Chavchavadze. She was received with great honor. The house where Oliver Wardrop lived in Tbilisi still exists today, and there is also a monument dedicated to the Wardrop siblings in the city. Oliver loved Georgia so deeply that he gave his daughter the Georgian name Nino, after Saint Nino, the woman who brought Christianity to Georgia in the 4th century.

Of course, one small blog post is not enough to cover all the fascinating details of the British-Georgian historical connection—there is still much more to say. I will continue writing about it in future posts.If you ever travel to Georgia, you can join one of the special tour

Mukhran Guliashvili

Statue of Wrdops in Tbilisi

Mihály Zichy: The Man Who Laid the Foundations of Georgian–Hungarian Relations

Mihály Zichy: The Man Who Laid the Foundations of Georgian–Hungarian Relations

Everything started in the 19th century, when modern Georgia was not an independent country as it is today. At that time, Georgia had been annexed by the Russian Empire. In 1801, the empire abolished the Georgian monarchy and exiled the royal family, the Bagrationi dynasty, to Siberia. The Bagrationi dynasty had ruled the country since the 9th century. Politically, this marked the end of the Kingdom of Georgia.

However, there was also a paradox. During the 19th century the Russian Empire was strongly influenced by European culture. Russian emperors actively invited European architects, painters, and decorators to work in the empire.

One of them was the Hungarian painter Mihály Zichy. He was born in 1827 in the village of Zala in Hungary. In 1847 he moved to St. Petersburg, where he was invited by the Russian emperor Alexander II of Russia to work as an illustrator for the imperial court.

Later he received an order to illustrate works by the famous Russian writer Mikhail Lermontov, who had lived in Tbilisi for some time. In 1881 Zichy traveled to Georgia to experience the atmosphere of the Caucasus in order to create illustrations for Lermontov’s poem The Demon. However, the publishing project was eventually cancelled and the illustrations were never published as originally planned.

Despite this, Zichy stayed in Tbilisi, and this unexpected turn led him to one of the greatest achievements of his career. He became the illustrator of the masterpiece of Georgian literature, The Knight in the Panther’s Skin by Shota Rustaveli.

For Georgians, this epic poem holds a cultural importance similar to the role of William Shakespeare in the United Kingdom. Zichy created 26 illustrations for a new edition of the book, and Georgian society was astonished by the quality of his work.

The famous Georgian painter Lado Gudiashvili later described Zichy’s illustrations as one of the greatest visual interpretations ever made of the poem.

Zichy himself deeply loved Georgia and the Georgian people. He once remarked that Georgians are very generous: “If you do something for them, they try to do even more in return.”

In gratitude, the Georgian people honored him. Today, a statue of Mihály Zichy stands in Alexander Garden, very close to Rustaveli Avenue and Orbeliani Square.


Mukhran Guliashvili – Local Tour Guide Tbilisi

Literature:

Mukhran Guliashvili – Local Tour Guide

1. Beno Gordeziani. Zichy in Georgia. 2nd edition. Tbilisi: “Soviet Georgia” Publishing House, 1966.

2. Guram Sharadze. Mihály Zichy and Georgian Culture. Tbilisi: “Khelovneba” (Art) Publishing House, 1978.

Tbilisi Architecture Tour

About the TourDuration: 5–6 hours

The architecture of Tbilisi is especially fascinating, as it combines European, Asian, Soviet, and modern architectural styles.

We will begin the tour on Rustaveli Avenue, where we will see five of the most beautiful 19th-century Art Nouveau buildings in Tbilisi. From there, we will move to the Asian part of the city, which was influenced by Iranian architectural styles.

Along the way, we will also see so-called Stalinist buildings, as well as modern 21st-century glass constructions.

Hiking Tour for Nature Lovers 

Private Guide Georgia

Hiking in Georgia is possible April to November, but best period is June to October . there are several locations for that, which I will recommend according to time you have in  here.  I can draw itinerary for you and go with you for hiking too. 

Customized private Tour around Georgia

If you have vacation and planning to see in Georgia as much as possible contact me let me know how many days you have, how many people you are and I will arrange itinerary for you according to your wishes , I can include hiking, wine testing, food tasting .

Best Time to Travel to Georgia

Best Time to Travel to Georgia

One of the most common questions I receive is: “What is the best time to travel to Georgia?”
The answer depends on what kind of experience you are looking for.

Georgia has a subtropical climate and four distinct seasons. Despite being a small country, it offers remarkable climatic diversity: winter (December–February), spring (March–May), summer (June–August), and autumn (September–November).

From my professional perspective as a local guide, the most convenient period to visit Georgia is from the second half of May to mid-November. During this time, travel conditions are excellent, with minimal road closures due to snow. This period is ideal for a 7–8 day tour or longer, allowing you to explore the country comfortably.

That said, many travelers—particularly from GCC countries—wish to experience snow. For them, the best time to visit is January to mid-March, when snowfall is fresh and frequent, especially in the mountains and ski resorts.

Each month in Georgia has its own unique charm. Below is a brief month-by-month guide to help you choose the perfect time for your visit.

January
January is winter and the heart of the festive season. New Year is the most important celebration in Georgia. From January 1–14, cities—especially Tbilisi—are beautifully decorated, with lively Christmas markets and celebration.

February
February is the coldest winter month and the best choice for those seeking a true snow experience. Georgia’s winters are relatively mild: average temperatures are around +2°C in Tbilisi and -5°C in ski resorts, making it comfortable even for families with children.

March
March is ideal for visitors who want to enjoy both snow and sunshine. Ski resorts offer pleasant weather, perfect for skiing and relaxing outdoors.

April
April marks the arrival of spring, with fruit trees in full bloom—apple, peach, cherry—and colorful wildflowers across the countryside.

May
In May, Georgia offers a rare combination of snowy mountain peaks and lush green valleys, along with abundant wildflowers.

June
June signals the start of the hiking season, and visitors can enjoy the first seasonal fruits, including fresh cherries.

July
July is one of the best months for hiking and nature exploration, featuring vibrant greenery and a low chance of rainfall.

August
August can be hot in Tbilisi, so it is best spent in the mountains or by the Black Sea coast.

September
September is a highlight for wine lovers, as it is harvest season. Visitors can participate in traditional grape harvesting and wine-making activities.

October
October showcases stunning autumn colors, making it a perfect month for photography and cultural travel.

November
November is less crowded, with mild weather and lingering autumn landscapes. The first snow may appear in the mountains.

December
By the end of December, the winter and ski season begins, bringing snow to mountain regions and festive energy to the cities.

What Is Special for Italian Travelers in Tbilisi?

What Is Special for Italian Travelers in Tbilisi?

The first historical connection between Italy and Georgia dates back to the 13th century and is associated with the famous traveler Marco Polo. Although he never actually visited Georgia, he mentioned the country in his book, describing Georgians as “brave Christian warriors” and “good sailors.”

In honor of Marco Polo, one of the streets in Tbilisi was named after him, and today several hotels and restaurants also operate under his name.

What I have mentioned so far is a more abstract historical connection. In this article, I would like to tell you about the real and tangible Italian legacy in the capital of Georgia—one that you can still see and touch. This is the story that inspired me to write this article.

Let’s begin.


Italian Legacy in 19th-Century Tbilisi

The first documentary photographer of the city of Tbilisi—and of Georgia as a whole—was Italian-born Dmitri Yermakov Cribaggio (1846–1916; Yermakov was his mother’s surname). He opened one of the first photographic studios on Rustaveli Avenue No. 19. Many of the earliest photographs of historic buildings in Tbilisi were taken by Yermakov, including the modern City Council building at Liberty Square and the former Youth Palace at Rustaveli Avenue No. 6

(In the 19th century, Georgia was part of the Russian Empire. 1801-1917)

The first systematic architect of Tbilisi was also Italian: Giovanni Scudieri (1817–1851). He designed the first Opera House of Tbilisi, which unfortunately was destroyed by fire and no longer exists, although its location is known. Scudieri also designed the Dry Bridge, the oldest bridge in Tbilisi over the Mtkvari River, which still stands today

Scudieri tragically died in Tbilisi after falling from scaffolding while inspecting one of the buildings for which he was the chief architect. He was buried in a Catholic cemetery in Tbilisi; although the location is known, the cemetery itself was removed during the Soviet period, and his grave was lost. Today, a street in Tbilisi bears his name.

How Did Scudieri Come to Tbilisi?

Scudieri was born in Lugano, where his mother was from, while his father came from Padua, where Giovanni grew up. His uncle, also an architect, worked in Odessa, and Scudieri’s parents sent him there to study and follow the architectural profession. From Odessa, he later moved to Tbilisi.

The city’s first opera was staffed entirely by Italians. In fact, Italian opera was the first opera not only in Georgia but in the entire South Caucasus. It opened on November 9, 1851, with all performers being Italian, by special invitation of the Russian Emperor. The opera was located at today’s Liberty Square, where the statue of St. George now stands.

Dry bridge, Architecture Giovani Scudieri
Dry bridge, Architecture Giovani Scudieri

Italian Architects in Modern Tbilisi

Now let us move from the 19th century to modern times. Between 2003 and 2012, Tbilisi experienced another architectural renaissance—one that, once again, could not have happened without Italians.

Some of the most prominent modern buildings in Tbilisi were designed by Italian architects:

• Peace Bridge — designed by Michele De Lucchi, completed in 2011. It is the only pedestrian bridge over the Mtkvari River and the newest one to date. Notably, both the oldest and the newest bridges on the Mtkvari River were designed by Italians.

• Public Service Hall — designed by Massimiliano Fuksas, a striking building with a mushroom-like shape.

If you are Italian and interested in visiting these buildings and learning more about them, I would be happy to be your guide.

Mukhran Guliashvili – Local tour Guide Georgia